This Carnival experience the village fervour along with the city parade
Goa is one of the few places among 50 odd countries that celebrate carnival or carnaval. Celebrated during the Portuguese rule, it was discontinued after Liberation but was revived again in 1964 due to the efforts of Late Vasco Alvares. Down the line, the organization of the events during Carnival has been largely handled by the Tourism Department.
The tradition of the event is that it marks the last celebration before the 40-day Lenten season of fasting and penance in the Christian calendar. Though Goa would not be among the top places to witness the colourful sequence of dances and parades, it is nonetheless very accessible to anyone wanting to experience the same. This year the flagging off the Carnival floats, with King Momo is scheduled at Panaji on 18th February, and similar parades will be held at Margao, Vasco, Mapusa, Porvorim and Morjim.
Local Goans of yesteryears, myself included have witnessed a different carnival that was simple and fun filled. Of course, the parades or floats were always there, but they were more a coming together of local communities and local rival groups to win the title of the best float, thrown in with fancy dressed children and adults, vintage cars, traditional dances and dances organized by the local clubs. Everyone indulged in water balloon and talcum powder pranks. The thrill of hiding and trapping one for such water and powder fights were all in good old clean fun. Mostly the girls would be at the receiving end with talcum powder on their heads.
As the years rolled, the event has been increasingly commercialized and although maybe better organized, it has lost the local flavour altogether. With sponsored floats and advertisements, it has somewhat lost its charm to those who have witnessed the old carnival celebrations. There are few places where it can be still witnessed carrying forward the old age village traditions during carnival. So, while one can still catch the contemporary themed floats in the cities and towns spread over the days, head to the villages for old traditions still kept at carnival for a good balance of both worlds.
Divar Island has a unique pre-Lent event of Potekars that has been celebrated for decades. Potekars (meaning shabby dressed persons) are locals from the Divar Island disguised scarily as they roam around the island trying to prance on anyone in sight. Speaking in fake voices and eerily dressed, most of the Potekars go unrecognised. So, one maybe actually spooked by their own friendly neighbour. Why exactly the choice of ‘creepy’ disguise maybe due certain early village practices using animal themes as a starting point initially. Initially the potekars were not allowed to enter homes and were known to terrorise the island so much that most main doors of homes remained shut during this time. Times have changed now, maybe with the familiarity of Zombie movies and zombie looking movie characters, the potekars are no longer feared. Now they have become the friendly, shaking hands with everyone. Of course, once in a while a poor unsuspecting child may scream in fright at the sight of them. With the potekars asking and receiving sweets from those they meet, I think this tradition is can pass off as a local Halloween.
Agonda in Canacona, has its own ‘Intruz’ in place. Largely a local celebration, after Sunday mass, Mell or folk troupes go around visiting houses, complete with traditional musical instruments, song and dance. If there has been a death in the home, then these Mell groups will pray instead, stopping their music and frolic briefly in respect of the departed soul. Khell tiatr, that is the local traditional Konkani drama or theatre are performed in the by lanes of the village by the local talent. These Khell tiatrs are not restricted to Agonda but can be witnessed in many south Goan villages during this time. Most of these Khell Tiatrs center around social and moral themes always promoting harmony among communities of people.
At Chandor, one may witness the unique Mussoll dance. Every year, during Carnival, usually the second day, an all-male Catholic group (usually chardo gaonkars) wearing traditional dress with a ghumot (percussion instrument unique to Goa), carry a ‘mussoll’ which is basically a pestle. The mussoll otherwise is a kitchen aid used by local Goan women to pound. In this case, the same is used in the dance. Hence the name, Mussoll dance of Chandor. The origin of the dance traces back to the Hindu warriors (kshatriyas) of the Kadamba dynasty. Though there was conversion to Christianity during the Portuguese rule, this dance in particular continued. From these warriors descended the Christian Chardos. The dance begins at the Mandd or the small Chapel/ Cross which is close to the ruins of the Chandreshwar temple. The dance is ritualistically Hindu has came to be associated with Carnival as it falls close to the festival of Shigmo in the same Hindu calendar month of Phalguna. At no other time or place does the Mussoll dance take place except here. So on the second day of Carnival head to the Cota temple from where the dance will start. Viva Carnaval!