Geography
and Map of
Goa
The state of Goa is tiny just around 3700 square kms in terms of area with a running length of 105 kms and a coast line of little over 100 kms. Since the width is a mere 60 kms at its widest, you are always only about an hour away from the Arabian Sea if not minutes away. The landscape of Goa consists of some of the best beaches in the country, dense forests, cultivated green fields, few mountains and wildlife sanctuaries.
The state is divided into two districts of North and South Goa. But a better way to understand its geography would be to look into the way the talukas are laid. A taluka is collection of villages that are formed mainly for local administrative and governing purposes. There are twelve talukas in Goa. North Goa consists of the Pernem, Bicholim, Sattari, Bardez, Tiswadi and Ponda talukas. South Goa holds the Salcete, Mormugoa, Canacona, Quepem, Sanguem and Dharbandora talukas.
Panaji or Panjim (Ponje in Konkani) is the capital city. The other main commercial cities and towns are the Margao, Vasco, Mapusa and Ponda. Its main revenue comes from Tourism and Mining, though mining by and large has come to a standstill.
The population stands at a little over 1.5 million. Being a very popular sort after destination, many visitors to the state fall in love with the lifestyle and quality of life here. Hence there is a large floating population who spend a few months every year here besides a sizeable number coming in to settle and adopting Goa as their permanent or retirement home. Due to this, the demography of the state is changing and there is a looming threat to the Goan identity itself. Besides high cost of living and land, jobs and resources being scarce, native Goans have migrated for better prospects abroad. All said and done, one can still experience the unique Goan vibe of living a content life with their sussegado attitude.
Languages and local dialect
Goans like many Indians are bilingual as well as multilingual. The local languages widely spoken is Konkani as well as Marathi. And there are variations in terms of the dialects and manner of speaking the languages. For instance, the manner in which Konkani is spoken varies widely from Bardez to that of Salcete to that of Ponda.
English is very well understood and widely spoken, sometimes more than the local languages itself. Most signages in fact are in English and hence as a visitor one will not feel lost for want of direction or communication.
From the older generation, there are quite a handful of people who speak Portuguese in their communities. These would be those who have been educated during the Portuguese rule, as the medium of instruction was Portuguese and the language has been passed on among to the next generation.
As a lot of people from other states have come into Goa, the demography of the state is changing and there is increasingly a chance that you meet someone who will communicate to you in Hindi too. There are small communities of foreigners who have settled in Goa since years or spend a few months every year here. For instance, if one goes to the beaches in the Pernem taluka, you will find Russian signages everywhere.
Here are a few basic courtesies in the local Konkani that would help you in interacting with the locals, I have used phrases that are devoid of any gender reference.
- Good morning/good day/Hello: Dev boro dis Dium (D-io bo-ro dis diu-oo)
- Goodbye, see you again: Borem tor, mellum ia (bo-rem tor, meh-oo-ia)
- Thank you: Dev borem Korum (D-io bo-rem ko-roo, Konkani) or Ob-ri-ga-do (oo-bri-gad, Portuguese but acceptable)
- Please: Upkar kor (oop-kar kor)
- Yes: Voi or hoi (Vo-ie or ho-ie)
- No: Naka or nam (na-ka or na-a)
- I am: Havn (ha- vhn)
- My name is: mhojem nanv (mo-jem na-v)
- I do not understand: mhaka somzonam (ma-kaa som-zov-naa)
- I don’t speak konkani: hanv Konkani uloinam (ha-v kon-ka-ni oo-loi-na)
- Do you speak English?: Tum Ingles uloita ? (too Ing-leesh oo-loi-tah)
- Water: Udok (oo-doh-kk)
- Help me: Adar kor (aa-dhaar kor)
- Please call a doctor: matxe dotorak apoi
- Please call the police : matxe policek apoi
- How much is this? : haka kitle poddttat?
- I would like: mhaka hem zai
- May I have this? : mhojean hem gheum ieta?
- Toilet : Kumão (koo-mao)
- One: ek (a-kh)
- Two: don (do-nn)
- Three: tin (tee-nn)
- Four: char (cha-rr)
- Five: panch (paan-ch)
- Six: sov (so-v)
- Seven: saat (saa-th)
- Eight: aatt (aa-th)
- Nine: nhov (no-v)
- Ten: dha (da-ah)
Local Goan Cuisine
An experience with a new place gets enhanced with the taste of its cuisine and Goa is no exception here. With the flow of so many people coming from different parts of the country and some from other countries too, and having set up their own restaurants and there is a varied choice of cuisines available in Goa today. However, I will focus on just the typical loan Goan cuisine.
The geographical location of the place influences the eating habits of the people. The coconut trees lined coasts running along the length of the state has its say in the local Goan cuisine. Largely across communities, the staple diet has been fish, curry and rice. And the curry of course is coconut based. The best way to savour this is to go to a local Goan eat out that is frequented by the locals and eat a Goan ‘fish’ thali. Since such thalis are for the common working person, they are usually available only at lunch on working days. My recommendation is to check out where the local crowd is and go there for the typical taste of the fish-curry-rice experience. Depending on the fish, the price of thali will vary starting from simple places offering a simple fare at around Rs.75 to well established restaurants offering a choice of fish for the ‘special’ thali at Rs. 450. A thali will contain rice, curry (prawn or smaller fish or fish pieces), one fried fish, kismur (dried prawn salad), vegetable, chapatis, maybe shell fish like mussels and clams, kokum and of course the papad and pickle. The portions are good enough or should I say even more than enough for a single person. Some restaurants will even offer a refill of the rice and curry. There is a typical way that the Goan Catholics and Goan Hindus prepare their fish curries, with the latter being a bit more spicy.
The influence of the Portuguese is undeniable on the Goan food palette. One will find typical Portuguese cuisine or a fusion version of it. A lot of beef and pork options are available among these and some can taste the same at the street food scene. Do read up Goan street food on this website for more. Chicken cafreal with local paõ (bread), beef xacuti and stew, pork vindaloo and sorpotel along with sannas are some dishes on the buffet table at Goan occasions. A lot of the older Goan sweet dishes made of coconut and jaggery usually are more difficult to find on the restaurant menus. One may find older generation of cooks (called ranpinns) who know to make these traditional dishes and they are hired specially during occasions to cook for guests. If you happened to be invited for such occasions take the opportunity to have the typical taste of their cooking as you will not find it elsewhere on restaurant menus.
As for drinks, feni is the famous spirit. During summer months, during the cashew season, one may find drinks originating from the different stages of feni making. Neero (non-alcoholic) and urak (alcoholic served with a green chilli and lime) are very popular cashew-based drinks among the local crowd, before the same ultimately turns to feni. Kokum is a non-alcoholic drink soft drink that is cooling and popular during the summer months. It is also served with the fish thali as a digestive, but I like to have it with a coconut juice base as an appetiser. As the saying goes, when in Rome do what the Romans do, I do recommend, when in Goa, eat as the Goans do.
Getting around Goa
If there is one thing that Goa is infamous for, is its admittedly pathetic local transport. It is one of the states where the road routes and public buses are privately owned and hence the irregular schedule. The state-owned transport facility are the Kadamba buses.
You have to understand when the bus conductor shouts ‘direct’ what he means. The local buses or routes are those where the bus will halt at all the bus stops along the way. Direct buses are those that will skip many of such routine bus stops along the way and may make a few main stops. In addition, there are Kadamba shuttle services which are mini buses that will take you from point to point without any stops on a few designated routes.
The Panaji- Margao and Panaji-Vasco routes are run by the Kadamba state owned buses. The rest of the routes are a run by privately owned but public buses along with the Kadamba buses. While the buses run fairly okay during the morning and evening work hour rush, its frequently is much lesser during other times. In fact, its frustrating to be sitting in the bus during these hours as they tend to loiter and linger along the stops on the way and then race with other buses on the same route in a bid to collect more passengers. Travelling at peak hours in buses will also mean that it is over crowded and one used to find people literally even hanging at the bus door. Do not attempt to do this if the bus is packed already. Just take another bus or another transport facility. Public transport is not available at night and the timings for the last buses will vary between 7 p.m. and 10 p.m.
One popular option unique to Goa is to take a ‘pilot’ if you are travelling alone. This service is also used freely among locals. No, not an airline pilot, but a motor cycle wherein the rider is called a pilot and you sit behind him as a passenger. They are easy to identify as they usually have a yellow tyre guard at the back wheel that distinguishes them. I have hardly heard of any untoward incidents involving such road pilots growing up in Goa. They are of course much more economical in comparison to hiring a rickshaw or taxi, besides being safe riders. Like the public buses, one may not find them around at late hours. They usually have an allotted space like a motorcycle stand as one would also find a rickshaw stand. One has to finalise the fare before taking the ride and you may bargain with regard to the fare.
The rickshaws and most taxis as of now do not refer to their meter system, so again finalise the fare before you sit in the vehicle. There are just two taxi apps, GoaMiles and Apna Bhada, which have a regulated fare. The normal tourist taxis can fleece you and so you need to get your bargaining skills tuned for the same. As of now the taxi unions are up in arms against GoaMiles and Apna Bhada, so don’t be surprised that there maybe a tussle among the drivers even while you are being picked or dropped. Again, rickshaws and taxis are not easily available past late hours. At most you may find tourist taxis outside hotels or restaurants in high tourist traffic areas. If you are plan a trip that is at late hours it is wise to make prior arrangements for a pick up. Fares are again higher at late hours.
Very popular among visitors are two-wheeler and car rentals, if you know how to ride and manoeuvre through the Goan roads. These options allow you the freedom at getting around at your pace. You will have to leave a document and deposit with the bike and car rental agency and of course, do carry your license and wear that helmet. Visitors are constantly pulled up by the Road Transport Officers and you will run into them along all the tourist routes. The road signage is just adequate but google maps are more than sufficient to get you around with directions. Just ensure you have good Wi-Fi. Electrical cycles are just getting started and one will find at least one such agency in Panaji. Few accommodations will also hire bicycles if requested on your behalf. Ride or drive safely!
Packing and dressing for the Goan weather and culture
Weather wise, Goa experiences three seasons. June to September are the monsoons, October to February is the cold season and March to May is the hot summer. However, living in Goa, I think there is a blurring between the three seasons. It is rather hot throughout the year, with spells of intense rains during the monsoons and the occasional winter chill on very few days of the year. The effect of climate change is starting to be visible in the changed weather conditions experienced.
The fabrics to wear would ideally be cotton or any cotton blend and linens. Being hot and humid mostly, these very breathable fabrics one can survive in. Should it rain or become chilly, one can layer up and it is more than sufficient to keep you warm. During monsoons, an umbrella comes in handy or a rain jacket if you are going to go around on a two-wheeler. In case you have forgotten to pack the same, all local markets and some roadside sale will keep you covered. During heavy spells of rains, neither the umbrella nor the raincoat will really do a 100% job. So do as the locals do. Take some shelter and wait until the rains subside.
The locals will be casually dressed most of the time and wearing shorts is a very acceptable. You will generally not see any locals in beach wear or shirtless in the streets except maybe the beach. Neither would they be flaunting designer labels or be over dressed or caked up. However, having received tourists right from the 1960s and 1970s and the hippie era, all sorts of dressing is accommodated.
It is amusing to see quite a number of tourists sporting a beach look walking around town or dressed over the top. Their dress code is understandable because they are in the holiday mode. However, churches now have put down an appropriate dress code for visitors and should you be visiting some, it would be advisable to carry a cover up for the bare shoulders and mini-skirts or shorts.
Smoking is prohibited in all public places including restaurants. Locals do follow these smoking protocols. so lit up only in designated areas, if at all. Drinking is actually prohibited on public beaches. It is advisable for you to respect the same and follow like-wise. Every now and then, broken glass bottles left in the sand pose harm to other visitors. So let’s be thoughtful travellers here.
Essential numbers In Emergencies
I do wish that you do have a pleasant holiday without any untoward incidences. However, in case of Plan B, it is always better to have some back up emergency numbers at hand, should one require. Hence this section contains the emergency numbers.
The following are essential numbers should one require at any time:
- Emergency: 108
- Centralised helpline number: 112
- Fire: 101
- Ambulance: 108, 102
- Child helpline: 1098
- Senior citizen helpline: 1090
- Women helpline number: 1091
- AIDS helpline: 1097
- Stress/Suicide helpline: 08322252525 (Monday to Friday, 1pm to 7pm)
- Airport Facilitation Counter: 0832-2540031
POLICE STATIONS:
- Police: 112
- Women Police Panaji: 0832-2428992
- Anjuna: 0832-2273233
- Calangute: 0832-2278284
- Canacona: 0832-2633357
- Colva: 0832-2788396
- Old Goa: 0832-2285301
- Panaji: 0832-2428360
- Mapusa: 0832-2262231
- Margao: 0832-2705095
PUBLIC AND GOVERNMENT RUN HOSPITALS & BLOOD BANKS:
- Goa Medical College, Bambolim (Operator): 0832-2458700-15 | Blood bank: 0832-2223037
- District Hospital, Mapusa: 0832-2225540
- South District Hospital, Margao: Blood bank: 0832-2705167
- Government hospital, Chicalim- Vasco: 0832-2513864