Panaji City: Eat & Drink

Padaria Prazeres

Padaria in Portuguese translates to ‘Bakery’ in the English lingua. This small quaint and charming bakery or rather Café is run by a young couple and has got quite popular through word of mouth. In a by-lane, just off the beach side road going from Miramar to Dona Paula, it is housed in a building right by the road with a little sit out. Open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., closed on Mondays, it has a limited but different menu from other cafes. We tried the Berliners, the simple cinnamon doughnuts, cream cheese bagels and the chicken sandwiches and topped it off with coffee. The Berliners with custard were really melt in the mouth items and the texture of the baguette sandwich was crusty, crunchy and just nice and light with the salad and chicken filling. There are no meal dishes as such but most of the items on the menu can be of all day dinning. The seat capacity is limited and people pack away the treats as one option if one does not want to wait. Since it is run with limited hands you may have to wait a little for your order that is given to you with much apologies and a huge smile. You can see the kitchen from the order counter and it is clean that one can eat off the counter tops. Go there for the European inspired pasteries, cakes and of course the Pasteis de Nata which we did taste and was delectable!!! Price wise it is on a higher side in comparison to the rest of the Cafés in Panaji but worth for the quality of what the bakery offers.

There is a local Goan tradition for breakfast when it comes to eating outside specially at breakfast hours. Bhaji-pao, Puri-Bhaji, Bhaji-Chapatti and in my case Buns and Bhaji. Café Bhonsale, Café Real, Café Tatos, Navtara and Kamats among others are the eateries that have stood the test of time and continue to be local favourites. That touch in the food that they serve is just unbeatable in the last few decades.

Café Bhonsale, since 1920 at Panjim has a steady stream of its loyal fans. It has opened its branches fairly recently at Porvorim and Ponda. At Panjim, the sitting arrangements are of two types, the non-A/C section just as you enter which is non-fussy, tight for space and quick in service. You eat and move. And for those who are not in a hurry, there is also an A/C section. There is no formal dining option here, but they do have a restaurant just upstairs that does just that.

If you are looking for the typical Goan sweets and bit more continental than the city has a lot of places for you to pack and take. Some of them do have a seating option and serve perfectly as rustic little café corners of their own. All these mentioned are landmarks in their own right and every local Panjimite will know about them, come what may.

Mr. Baker since 1920 as the name says, near Jardin Garcia de Orta is well known since I have been a child. My first memories of cake and patty is in fact from their shop at the Mapusa market. They had these cylindrical white vanilla sponge cakes and English Madeleines which are sadly have got replaced with time. Nevertheless, they have plenty of tasty treats that one can indulge in while being seated along the glass façade of their eatery watching the Jardin or just people watching.

Confeitaria 31 De Janeiro is one of the places that I managed to go only recently after locating it. I kept missing the tiny narrow walking lane leading up to it. It looks charming with its external sitting almost like a streetside café in Quebec with the hanging flower pots. Good for tea treats and reasonable on the pocket, it is one of those uniquely Goan spots of yesteryears having a baking furnace quite visible to all the visitors.

Goan sweets like Bebinca, Dodol, Doce, Pinagr, bakery biscuits including forminhas and bread rolls and paozinhos are available at the above mentioned places. Good for take aways too.

Café Central, easily close to a century old, is a bustling shop just off 18^th June road. Having a range of locally made cakes, biscuits, Indian Sweets and savouries which is a favourite mushroom samosa thrown in, its one of the most crowded shops you are going to visit in the city. The service is quick as soon as you get the knack to be able to get to the counter and give your order. So, decide what you want to buy before getting to the counter. With the people waiting to give their orders, it is not one of the places where you can take your time and enquire about what is available to make your choice if you don’t want the irritated looks of people waiting behind you. But whatever you buy it will always be the freshest from this place.

Geeta bakery is a little corner shop that is near the Panjim market and as a result will easily be one of the few shops having most footfalls. It is well known for its most economically priced items that range from cakes, biscuits, savouries and of course the Goan pao and sliced bread. It serves a vegetarian fare and so don’t go here for any egg or meat items. If you do have too refined a taste it may not be your cup of tea but definitely do try the vegetarian patty which has the flakiest crust.

Geeta Bakery’s neighbour the Marietta Bar and Restaurant is not really a café or shop like the ones mentioned here but nonetheless it is as iconic of old Panjim, and therefore I am including it in this post. Marietta Bar and Restaurant was one of my earliest childhood memories of eating out whenever we visited Panjim. I remember so vividly the soup made of fresh chicken and beef stock. And of course, that tomato ketchup bottle kept on the table that I insisted be added to my soup. Those were the times when ketchup was not commercially sold in shops and there were no supermarkets and so it was a novelty to little me. On a personal note, hard-working couple Late Moti (equally football fan that you will see its evidence in the eatery) and his wife Doris ran the kitchen very much like a home kitchen and that continues with the next generation taking over. In fact, the place is named after one of their children. The ambience of the place has not changed for years and if you like a homely, no fuss ambience with good value for money and the typical local Goan kitchen fare of a Catholic home then this is the place to come for beef and pork-based dishes.

De Silvas, opposite Miramar beach is famous for its evening cutlet pao among other local Goan fare like sorpotel pao, beef chilly fry, beef tongue, croquettes and more. You will always find a steady stream of people taking away their snacks. This place is a choice for non-vegetarians as I don’t remember ever seeing any vegetarian dish on their menu, save the pao and poie.

From the Goan to South Indian fare, there is no dearth in choice for restaurants. And alongside these are the cafes that have been mushrooming all over the city. Understandably the vibe of these cafes along with the ambience of its interiors make sipping a cuppa coffee quite a hip as well as pleasant experience. Some of the cafes also double up as a working space and one can sight youngsters on their laptops working away. This scene seems to have become more common post pandemic. Suppose the smell of fresh coffee and bread stir those brain cells enough to be in overdrive at work.

Mr. Baker since 1922. It is one of the oldest bakeries that I can remember as a child. It was started by Pedro Vincent Vaz or PVV as we used to call the shop in Mapusa. I can vividly remember those small cylindrical cakes that came with the paper wrapped around which was a tea time favourite. And of course the madeleines with jam. In Panjim, you will find Mr. Baker near the Panjim Church and Jardim. Go there for traditional and local Goan goodies and snacks. A favourite of the local crowd as they stock all the traditional Goan snacks and sweets and that is what one should try here. From the patty to the croquettes, it is the typical taste. There is a seating area and one can sit there enjoying the snacks over a cup of tea while people watching. Besides being tasty, the prices are very pocket friendly.

Pastry Cottage is one of the oldest places around and has reinvented itself with a very contemporary seating in at least three places in Panjim that I know of. While I visit the one at Caranzalem which is the bigger café in terms of space, they do have their first outlet near Junta House in Panjim and another just a little further from the Military Hospital at Campal. Its menu is fast food and pastries with some of the snacks quite their own. Their desserts, cafreal stuffed bread and take away bakery biscuits are worth a try. Tasty and again quite pocket friendly.

Carasid at Miramar is in a quiet bylane just a little further than the two colleges. Understandably it is quite popular among students. Serving snacks, cakes and pastries, their white chocolate cake and sandwiches are really good. Reasonable enough, you can have a small snack here with iced tea and cold coffee daily and yet not feel the pinch. The plain croissants here are also good to try.

Cremeux is located just behind the old Secretariat, behind Custom house and in close vicinity of the Casinos on Mandovi. A narrow stairway leads one to a spacious indoor and outdoor seating. The look of the café is quite industrial and it is a cosy place. The salads and burgers are crispy as it should be. The continental breakfast is good for the price and there is an Indian breakfast option too. There is another branch just opposite Miramar beach at Clube Gasper Dias. I think no one makes the Opera cake better than Cremeux and that should be on the list with anyone having a sweet tooth.

Myles High Bake house at the Patto, Panjim is a hidden but quite popular spot among the working crowd due to the offices all located there. Quality stuff in all their items from salads to the Arabic options, sandwiches and all types of bread. The smell of the fresh bakes is enough to get one hooked to the place. Good to try the Arabic Mezze salad for the health conscious and the creamy pesto spaghetti for those who are not. The highlight of the place is its initiative in scouting and promoting local music talent. You will find Roque and Carlos, Goa’s well-known musicians playing there on most days between 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. Listening to them is a real treat for those who can truly appreciate soothing music. They are inviting to anyone who would like to sing along and they will serenade you if you are celebrating any occasions there.

Perfect Cup is one of my favourite places to drop in. Just by the Miramar beach and inside the Goa Tourism Residency at Miramar, chances are you will find parking here. Great ambience and good service. The lady owner makes you feel quite right at home if she is around. Good for breakfast with its continental platter and other options. Its Barista counter gives you the works in coffee variations. It has also started a pre-plated Asian cuisine. I like the pork here. It is the only place where one can taste poutine as far as I know. It is a good place to catch up and the recorded music is always upbeat here. There is a corner to pick up a book to read for the bookworms.

While the above have been around for quite some time, a testament to their popularity, there are some new kids, I mean cafes, on the block. Each one with their own creative juices in their menus and offerings. While the prices are bit on the higher side, the quality is worth it. Each one serving with a twist of their own, you will find always something interesting to try for the first time.

The Sugar Flower at Patto, Panjim is a small cosy set up at Gera on the ground floor, just before the Central Library. It is run by Truffles, a well-known home bakery service at one time, now set up as a café at Caranzalem, with the demand of their chocolate cakes. Rich and moist, Truffles’ cakes are out of this world. The Sugar Flower at Patto, follows the trend but one can hop in for their breakfast with choice in their egg preparations. Their croissants with local Goan sausage stuffing are worth the try and wrap it up with a Baileys pastry.

Larder + Folk is one of the brightest and quaintest cafes I have come across. Quite a limited menu, but they have their signature fare on point which includes a braided doughnut and a recommended OG Fried Chicken burger. You can actually see the baking going on at the upper ground level while you await your order on the ground floor. The seating is also limited but you are likely to find a seat. Located near the Fontainhas area or Latin quarter, look out for its signage as it is a little off the main road. There is something about the place that is especially nice.

Nanbai located in the quiet bylanes of Campal, Miramar, is like finding a treasure in a maze and yet full satisfying once you have tasted their treats. Freshy prepared, their juicy Lucy burgers are to be enjoyed licking your fingers. Everything I have tasted here I have liked including the rich almond croissant with almond butter which is my guilty pleasure. It has a lot of seating area inside which is a nice quiet corner to catch up with friends and family. Again, worth their price.

Panaji City: Eat & Drink

Padaria Prazeres

Bhaji and Buns at Breakfast…or any other time

Old time favourites for local Goan treats.

Cafes to chill in.