The Holy Hilland Museum Of Christian Art (MOCA), Old Goa

Old Goa or Goa Velha (as it is still referred to sometimes) was the former capital of Goa during the Portuguese rule.It is easily one of the best developed parts of the state, being the seat of trade at that time till the capital actually shifted to Panjim. It stills remains center of Christianity in Goa and is on the world map being a UNESCO site with its famous ‘Se Cathedral and Basilica of Bom Jesu’.

Within this vicinity lies what is popularly called the Monte Santo (the Holy Hill) as it contained a group of religious structures, some of which are in ruins, some restored and some still standing. The ruins of the Church of St. Augustine are a result of the church being abandoned in 1800s after the eviction of the Augustinian friars. The bell of the tower was shifted to the Immaculate Conception Church at Panjim where it remains till date. Also interestingly, the ruins revealed in 2013, the remains of Queen Ketevan, who was canonised as a Saint. Her relics were handed over to the Georgian government in 2021.

While the entry to the Church of St. Monica is open and free, the entry to the museum is chargeable at a nominal amount of Rs. 100 only. I was happy to note that it is a very accessible museum with ramps, wheelchair availability as well as a stairlift to the first level. There is an audio guide that is available and can be scanned on to one’s smart phone right at the entrance.

There are unique displays that are one of its kind globally. Right at the center as one enters is a large striking tabernacle of silver depicting a pelican which is the only one of its kind. There are other displays of tabernacles as well. The banners and vestments are intricate and have a golden zardozi type of embroidery resembling some Indian influences. In addition, there is ivory sewn into the cloth banners which were used during religious processions. There are a lot of displays of ivory and silver in form of crucifixes, incense holders, candle holders, smaller statues and items used typically during mass. Old Holy Books and Bibles are also preserved and presented along with wooden frames, sculptures, carvings, portable alter as well as a wooden palanquin.

The museum was earlier housed at the Rachol Seminary before it was shifted to its present location. The collections have also been put together from artefacts from different churches as well as donated private collections from families. There is a small but quaint collection of souvenirs in a corner. The museum is small and one can complete the visit at leisure in about an hour.

The museum also allows an entrance to the St. Monica Church as well an accessibility to a viewing platform from where the cloistered nuns would attend mass. At one time, the Church of St. Monica was the first and largest convent in Asia. Interestingly, the origin of the famous Goan Bebinca is credited to these nuns.